Monday, August 22, 2011

Chapter 24: A Funny Thing Happened

THE CHRONICLER OF THE KITCHEN                                       August 2011
Mike Campbell

A FUNNY THING HAPPENED ON THE WAY TO THE KITCHEN


Pressure makes people do silly things. Heat and stress can cause the body and mind to go numb. Screaming and cussing are the usual outlets in the kitchen, BUT THERE ARE TIMES WHEN THE COMEDY GODS VISIT!



“Standard breading procedure” is a common technique used in cooking. An item is coated in flour, then egg, and then breadcrumbs, before cooking.  Fried chicken is an example. Coating a human is not “standard procedure” but it can be done.
The required raw materials are all readily available in a commercial kitchen: flour, egg, breadcrumbs, humans, and someone with a fried brain willing to participate in nonsense while the manager is not in close proximity.
As some of the participants related to me, towards the end of a long night the boys were restless and began searching for their release valve. The sauté guy looked at his work area, noticed he had just dumped the breading station in a large trashcan and mused; all I need is protein! Aha, an unsuspecting female lurking in the pantry.

“everyone on the post looking for these blighters,
and I reconnoiter adroitly and encounter them.”
Sgt. Archibald Cutter (Cary Grant)
Gunga Din (movie)

The flunkies spring into action. They grab the girl and start dipping her feet first, into the mix. Voila, she is ready for frying!
As I have intimated in previous chapters, if you are to survive in the kitchen you can’t just accept this treatment. THERE MUST BE RETRIBUTION. Like a lioness on the hunt, she watched and waited.
 The raw fish was stored in the drawers of a cabinet. Proper fish storage requires the product to be iced and refrigerated at all times. The fish sits in a perforated liner above a drip pan, which collected the melting ice. This fish water is nasty and had to be emptied daily. It is not intended to be a cleansing liquid.
ATTACK! The aggrieved female douses the sauté guy with the fish water.
Sometimes these antics have unintended consequences. When flour is dumped on someone, they can shake themselves off and go home to shower. But this is where the fun and true retaliation begin. A mixture of flour and water is dough! The recipient thus becomes a “Human Wellington” long before he is clean.

An ex-coworker of mine instituted a farewell ceremony of smashing a whipped cream pie in the face of people transitioning to other employment. We discovered this when he decorated a restaurant manager on his last day of work. So when I gave my two-week notice, my guard was on high alert!
Finally, it is the last day of this job and I have not yet had my pie. I spend the first part of this day looking for “Charlie” and grow weary of the constant effort. So I decide I will attack first! I prepare a pie and stalk!
This kitchen was a long narrow room with a wall running its length dividing the hot line from the dish room. There were narrow walkways on either side. If I could catch “Charlie” in one of these walkways, he would have nowhere to hide. I set this plan in motion and missed several opportunities before “The Good Lord” smiled on me.
“Charlie” was in the dish room, I grabbed my pie and moved to the front, next to one of the walkways. Would he choose this one? YES! If I peeked around the corner to line up my shot I would be seen. I had to hope for blind luck. I listened, I waited, my prey was on its way. I stuck my arm out, pie in hand, at shoulder height. SPLAT! It was perfect! I hit him dead center in the face and caught him completely by surprises! It was so good he fell on the floor screaming!
He dropped what he was carrying and flopped on the floor like a harpooned whale! Whipped cream was everywhere, his face, his jacket, and the floor. All the while he moaned “nobody gets Charlie”, “nobody gets Charlie”. The staff was beside themselves with laughter. It was worth the cleanup, seeing "Charlie’s" face covered and watching him wipe the cream out of his eyes. Years later and I can still hear him whining, “ nobody gets Charlie, I get them”. Not this night!

Most Chefs do not want nonsense occurring in their kitchens, so it was nice to see one participate. I was working in a small restaurant and space was limited. The only freezer was a double door “reach in” about three feet deep. There were only a few shelves so it was not uncommon to spend time on your knees hunting for inventory. Your head and shoulders would be in the freezer and your backside would be in the hallway.
One day the Chef turned the corner to find a young and rather large cook in this position. Chefs are creative and constantly worry that product is spoiling while staff ponder their next move. What to do? He placed his foot on the meaty portion of checked pants and applied aggressive pressure. Before the screaming began, he almost had the door slammed shut. He mused, two hundred and fifty pounds of free frozen meat! What more could a cost conscience manager want?

“Music soothes the savage beast”, so says an old proverb, and long hours and extreme heat can turn your brain to mush. These two ships often collide in the kitchen, resulting in behavior that would seem peculiar anywhere else.
A solitary man stands at his dish machine and sings loudly and badly to pass the time. He usually sings the old disco song “At The Carwash”. Of course, he changes the words to “At The Dishwash”. Over time this gets old so his minds wanders. There is a large metal “stand fan” in his dish room. Sound waves bounce off solid objects, so he experiments. Singing straight in to the fan blades has little effect; it doesn’t matter if you are in front or behind. But if you are just a little off center, magic. Reverb has been rediscovered. Its almost Elvis, but this man is an R&B fan. Billy Paul’s “Me and Mrs. Jones” is the answer!
A less than ordinary voice has been transformed into radio perfection! “The Fan Man” has been born and his lilting tones lead to another adventure.
“The Fan Man” worked at a hotel that offered karaoke on the weekends. These events were not well attended and the DJ’s were always looking for some way to charge up the crowd. Enter “The Fan Man”.
Just singing would not do! “The Fan Man” was an admirer of James Brown and he had to enter as James Brown. We did not have a red cape, but we did have red table clothes. Two cooks would drape a tablecloth over his head and lead him through the dining room and bar on to the stage. He would kneel down and the cooks would remove the “cape”. Then he would sing James Brown. The crowd loved it!
The DJ’s wanted him every week. Soon “The Fan Man” added a pair of sunglasses, bobbed from side to side and sang Stevie Wonder songs. We were never able to get the fan on stage but James Brown and Stevie Wonder were enough to keep the managers shaking their heads and the rest of us happy.

Have you ever wondered what to do with brownies? The obvious answer is to eat them but they are capable of multi tasking. Put one in your hand, add a little water and squeeze. Now place them gently on the floor around your work area. A gullible person and a knowing crowd are now required. The crowd must stay quiet waiting for their “mark” to shout:
IS THAT A TURD?
The similarity is remarkable.


With ample food and open back doors, it has been known for mice to enter restaurants. They are not marathon runners; they dart from hiding place to hiding place. They are usually noticed from the corner of your eye, as dark movement that is not there when you try to find it. How do you make use of this knowledge? Abuse an unsuspecting co-worker, of course!
A jumpy person and an avocado are your tools. Avocados have large dark colored pits, remove the pit and wait. When your “mark” is looking away, roll the pit along the floor in his general direction. When the shadow crosses his line of sight, he will jump and maybe even shout! Its great fun!



“A little nonsense now and then is cherished by the wisest people”.

Reminisce Magazine



I owe, I owe, its off to work I go.
Into THE CAULDRON!

“The difficult we do,
                             The impossible takes a little longer!”

Is tuisce deoch na sceal




Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Chapter 23: A Wiseman Once Said

THE CHRONICLER OF THE KITCHEN                                        May 2011
Mike Campbell

A WISEMAN ONCE SAID

I am Sir Oracle,
And when I obe my lips, let no dog bark!

William Shakespeare
The Merchant Of Venice


It is unusual for a cook to wax philosophical, but when it happens, listen.



“I SMELL SOMETHING BURNING……,
SEETHING NEGITIVITY!”
*.*.
A comment on the less than happy working atmosphere.




“I HAVE ANAL MYOPEA”
A TRADITIONAL KITCHEN PROVERB
I can’t see my ass going to work today.




“WHEN I GET YOUR AGE, MY BODY WILL TORTURE ME FOR WHAT I AM DOING TO IT.”
D.P
A 30-year-old cook, with a hangover, commenting to 50-year-old co-worker.




“YOUR BRAIN IS YOUR BEST TOOL”
M.C.
Common sense and thinking are underdeveloped natural resources.




“THE QUESTION IN NOT WHERE YOUE LEARNED BUT DID YOU LEARN”
M.C.
The desire to learn is more important than a diploma from a culinary school.





“DON’T YOU GO TO SCHOOL SO YOU DON’T HAVE TO WORK LIKE THIS?”
D.P.
This cook, a culinary school graduate, was exasperated during a busy service




“ALL KITCHENS ARE F***ED UP, IT’S JUST A MATTER OF HOW F***ED UP!”
*.*.
The truth.



“I DON’T GET PAID ENOUGH TO GET UPSET.”
D.P.
How one cook stays calm.




“THE HARDEST THING I DO EVERYDAY IS SWALLOW MY PRIDE.”
D.P.
The cook considered himself more talented than management.
May also be related to first comment.




“MY BROTHER IS A LAWYER, MY FATHER IS A DOCTOR, AND I COOK MUSHROOMS.”
*.*.
Getting to know a new cook as he sautés.



“BEER AND WAITRESSES”
D.B.
One cook’s answer to the question, how does a line cook survive?



THE TRUE SIGN OF STRENGTH IS APOLOGIZING AFTER THE BATTLE.
M.C.
The true character of a man is displayed in this simple but difficult task.




“I’VE BEEN F***ED IN THE KITCHNE SO MANY TIMES, I KNOW HOW TO WORK AROUND IT.”
*.*.
Survival skills A cook’s remark about his unique experiences.




“I NEED THIS JOB.”
One guy’s technique for doing whatever he is told.




“COOKS GET F***ED, AND CHEFS GET LAID.”
D.P
What’s the difference between a cook and a chef?




“I SHOULD BE WEARING A PAPER HAT”
*.*.
After a menu change, one cook thought his talents were under utilized and surmised he could do the same thing at a diner.




“WATER IS A POWERFUL SOLVENT”
*.*.
Ex scientist, cook, commenting on the proper liquid to clean a floor




“YOU HAVE ONE FOR EACH DAY OFF.”
*.*.
The company issued two uniforms to the staff working five days a week.





“YOU CAN’T JUST THROW A WHITE JACKET ON HIM AND CALL HIM A COOK”.
*.*.
The typical management technique for maintaining a low payroll.
        



“YOU SHOULD’T ASK WHY THINGS WENT SO WRONG TONIGHT, YOU SHOULD ASK WHY THEY DO NOT GO SO WRONG EVERY NIGHT!
M.C.
This person was less than impressed with the usual quality of hospitality management.




“ARE YOU APPLYING LOGIC TO THE MANAGERIAL MIND?”
*.*.
This person was perplexed that others did not think like him.




“DEBACCHARI ERGO SUM”
(“I RANT THEREFORE I AM”)
*.*.
This person was a follower of the Rene Descartes school of philosophy.
He would loudly question his existence and individuality, theorizing he was not just another part of the kitchen. Most likely related to the preceding quote.






I owe, I owe, its off to work I go.
Into THE CAULDRON!

“The difficult we do,
                             The impossible takes a little longer!”

Is tuisce deoch na sceal


Thursday, April 28, 2011

Chapter 22: The Unspoken Response

THE CHRONICLER OF THE KITCHEN                                  April 2011
Mike Campbell

THE UNSPOKEN RESPONSE

In order to be accepted by The Restaurant School’s Culinary Program each prospective student was required to submit a written Goal Statement. This essay expressed what the student expected from the school. My essay from 1999 is below.


I expect The Restaurant School to show me how to prepare food that is a conversation stopper. When people eat something I have prepared, I want them to stop talking and concentrate on the flavor in their mouths. This should be an instantaneous and unconscious event. All of a sudden nothing matters but the food. You murmur with delight, unable to describe the sensation in words and you are reduced to saying - oh! Man that is good! I have experienced this feeling at a friend’s house and have spent the last several years trying to duplicate the taste of “Butch” ribs.
Cooking is a voyage of discovery. It is a journey that will show me how to mix and match different tastes, styles, and textures. I will learn how to take raw ingredients and turn them into something wonderful.
I believe I have the talent and drive to attain this goal but lack the education and experience. The Restaurant School can provide these things and the rest is up to God.

* * *        * * *     * * *    * * *      * * *

My friend “Butch” is no longer with us, but he will always be my inspiration. He opened my taste buds to a fascinating world of flavor. As I read the essay above wonderful memories come flooding back. I would salivate for weeks before one of “Butch’s” dinners. There was nothing I would rather eat than his ribs.
This Gentleman of the South had a way with pork ribs like no other. He would cook in the style of his native Carolina. The back ribs would be falling off the bone tender and glazed with a ketchup and vinegar sauce. The meat would melt in my mouth and no matter how much I had eaten, I wanted more. My face and hands would be covered in sauce, soiled napkins and bones would be piled high and “Butch” would be smiling. He had invested hours in preparation but would eat very little. He was always happy to see others enjoy his cooking! I was in heaven and he had taken me there!
I would sit in his dining room and barely say a word, I would eat and he would refill my plate. Our two wives were there but the performance belonged to and “Butch” and me. We would both be grinning form ear to ear. Soon I would be doing my Al Bundy impersonation, slouching back with my belt loosened and the top button on my pants undone (get that dirty thought out of your mind).
My upbringing in an Irish – American household had not prepared me for this. Most dinners consisted of well-done meat and mashed potatoes.  I have a very distinct childhood memory from eating dinner at my mother’s uncle’s house. My great aunt had mixed onions in with the peas! Why would she do such a thing? And peas were my favorites! We would not eat this mixture and questioned my great aunts rationality all the way home. I would not even try meat if it were not brown on the inside! And I would loudly espouse the notion that I did not like something even though I had never tasted the item. After cooking school this philosophy has become one of my two pet peeves concerning people and food. The second is salting food before it is even tasted.
One particular evening, like all others when “Butch” was cooking, I was geared up for my “Carolina climax”.  As I entered the house, the usual aroma was missing. Something was not right! What was going on?
 “Butch” was serving salmon! WHAT? I'm going to eat fish? This stuff is orange! And it's not even a Friday in Lent! My saliva had turned to tears.

I was told “you can’t eat ribs all the time!”
Oh, yes I can!

“Butch” was a showman living the old theater axiom, “always leave them wanting more”. And he was right; I wanted pork back ribs and nothing else. He was forcing an education on me, not only was I not getting ribs I was not even getting red meat! Fish was something I rarely ate.
This lesson of educating the palette came back to me at The Restaurant School, where the instructors would chant,
TASTE EVERYTHING!
YOU DON’T HAVE TO EAT IT, BUT TASTE EVERYTHING!

“Butch” was imparting his wisdom and displaying true hospitality and kindness. I learned an important lesson and captured the essence of the experience. FOOD THAT TASTES THE BEST IS FOOD THAT IS MADE WITH LOVE. EVERY EFFORT IS FREELY GIVEN IN ORDER TO MADE THE GUEST HAPPY. AND THE COOK IS HAPPIEST WHEN THE GUEST IS SO STUFFED HE CAN’T EVEN SPEAK!



I owe, I owe, its off to work I go.
Into THE CAULDRON!
“The difficult we do,
                             The impossible takes a little longer!”
Is tuisce deoch na sce

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Chapter 21: A Cook's Life - Part Three

THE CHRONICLER OF THE KITCHEN                                   March 2011             Mike Campbell

A COOK’S LIFE – PART THREE:
Reality

The restaurant business will work you like a dog and pay you the same way!


Most cooks will work in “THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS”. Any owner of a business is in business to make money. They are not interested in making the staff rich. Get this fundamental fact in your head and never forget it:

 Owners make money by paying you as little as possible!

Does that feel like a slap in the face? Good! Wake up and smell the fryer grease.

Owners, managers, and chefs are well aware that young cooks are willing to sacrifice themselves in order to build their reputation. They will work long hours and accept sub standard pay just to cook. In fact, in the better restaurants, interns are NOT paid!  Interns work for free just so their names can be associated with a fine establishment or Chef. What businessman would not accept free labor, especially when it is somewhat skilled and very willing! And you thought indentured servants were a thing of the past!

In modern America, most employers offer company paid health benefits, paid vacations, paid holidays, a five day work week, and an eight hour work day. Do restaurants routinely offer these benefits? The answer for most cooks is no, no, no, no, and no.
And while you are thinking about receiving zero benefits that corporate America takes for granted, don’t forget about your education. You probably owe $20,000.00 to an “institution of higher learning” that prepared you to enter an industry that is notorious for not paying a living wage. You will soon learn what “the working poor” really is and stop asking why so many cooks work two jobs.
Are you prepared to endure the summer heat? If it’s uncomfortable outside, this feeling is magnified inside. Temperatures on the line average 100 degrees. And this is just an average because if you work the broiler it is much hotter. Do you have any idea what it is like to function in such conditions for eight to ten hours a day? A really bad day is when you sweat so much the money inside your wallet is wet!
Can you stand for your entire working life? Do you understand that getting cut and burnt is commonplace? Can you imagine yourself working in such conditions?
You made a conscience decision to work every weekend and holiday when you entered the hospitality industry. But your decision also impacts those closest to you. Family, friends, spouses, and significant others grow weary of your absence.
If you have children, when do you see them? Watching them sleep doesn’t really count. Children usually get right to the point.

WHY DO YOU HAVE TO WORK ?
 JUST CALL IN SICK !

Going to work and leaving a sad child behind really makes one question their priorities!
The joy of cooking can override many negatives. It can make your endorphins jump. Your senses are filled with aromas and sensations that just make you smile! Can you experience the positive amid the negatives?
If you are a jingoistic xenophobe you should not be in this industry. The kitchen is truly a “worldly” experience. I have worked with black, brown, white, and yellow faces. I have shared experiences with males, females, heteros, and gays from teenagers to septuagenarians. The kitchen is home to agnostics, atheists, Buddhists, Christians, Hindus, Jews, Muslims, and many other religions persuasions.
I once worked with a man born and raised in Senegal, who later lived in Italy, moved to the southern United States, and then Pennsylvania. He worked two jobs, so he could support his daughter living in Texas. We did not share skin color, native language, religion, or national heritage, but he was one the happiest and nicest people I have ever met!
Languages from every continent are spoken. English is the language of the land, French the language of food, and Spanish is usually the language of the dish room. These and others are co-mingled so everyone knows a little of many languages. I am fluent only in the English language but I can curse in many!

Good food transcends speech. All cooks are really looking for the glimmer in your eye, the smile on your face, and the murmur of appreciation while eating. Words are not necessary!
And this is why we do it!

“ THAT’S THE FACT JACK ! ”



I owe, I owe, its off to work I go.
Into THE CAULDRON!


                                      “The difficult we do,
                             The impossible takes a little longer!”

 Is tuisce deoch na sceal

Friday, February 4, 2011

Chapter 20 - A Cook's Life: Part Two

THE CHRONICLER OF THE KITCHEN                                February 2011
Mike Campbell

A COOK’S LIFE – PART TWO:
Induction


Imagine any army movie where the new recruits jump off a bus, get new uniforms and are then screamed at by their instructors. The first days in a culinary school are much the same.


There is excitement in the air. Your adrenaline is pumping and you can’t wait to get started. You are in a new environment, doing new things and meeting new people. You are learning to cook, you can’t wait to go home and impress someone!
Your mind is on food, food, food! What will I learn today; meat, fish, poultry, vegetables, garnish, baking? Bring it on, I want to learn it all.
You are also very uncomfortable! The uniform you must wear is STIFF, HOT, and UNFORGIVING. You have not yet learned to wear at least one size larger than your regular clothes.
The jacket is sparkling white and looks impressive. The pants are another story! Whoever thought of this check design? They are stiff and chaff your legs even thought they have been washed five times already.
In the United States there are two common types of headgear, the floppy hat or the paper toque, (it will be awhile before you realize this “coffee filter’s” proper name). So how do you wear the floppy hat? Is the excess material worn on the left or the right? Do you pull it straight back? How about standing straight up in the air? Does it matter? In any case it feels weird and looks ridiculous.
The paper toques are one size fits all, which usually means it fits no one. The paper curves around on itself and the two sides are pushed to fit your head. Those with larger heads soon realize the two sides must be stapled or they will spend their entire shift pulling on the toque. They also learn the proper way to staple a toque, make sure the flat side of the staple is against your head. Just as important, you learn that paper absorbs sweat and will disintegrate on your forehead. If you pay attention, you will see the telltale discoloration before the hat slides down into you eyes.
In my school, we were inspected before each class. We stood at our worktable, so the instructor could see we had all our tools and our uniforms were clean. My first eye opener was the morning the chef instructor started screaming because he could not find the person wearing brown shoes.
The instructor was instilling in the students that the French are Number One in food and fashion. No self respecting Parisian would ever wear brown shoes with checked pants and a black belt! What season did this silly student think it was? The instructor might well have snidely remarked: 

“ I fart in your general direction.
Your mother was a hamster and your father smelled of elderberries.”
 (Monty Python and the Holy Grail)

The chef shouted as he marched up and down the room glaring at everyone’s feet and became louder and more upset the longer he looked for “the brown shoes”. He didn’t realize “the brown shoes” and a few other students had been sent out of class to collect the day’s provisions. Needless to say, a message was sent and received!
 Another day an instructor was questioning a student about the state of his apron. The main purpose of an apron is to keep slop off of you, your jacket and your pants. Thus aprons tend to get dirty and stained. Removing stains from a white apron is hard, tedious work and in the end your efforts are fruitless. The student defended himself replying, “it may be stained, but it is clean”. The chef accepted this explanation and moved on. See, Chefs can be reasonable!

Now that everyone is dressed alike and has presented themselves to the Chef, we can begin.
You start with the knife; how to hold it, hone it, and store it. What is really being demonstrated is how not to cut yourself. And since you usually feel the edge to determine sharpness, someone always gets cut. Everyone who is not cut snickers at the plight of the bleeding student. But your blade is only waiting. It will get you!

The “SCHOOL OF HARD KNOCKS” trainees, are mostly ignored, screamed at, and assigned the worst tasks, at the worst times until they prove their worth. It is not uncommon for cooks not to know the new guys name, until he has been there awhile.
If you are receiving “on the job training”, you are usually just thrown to the wolves. You will be peeling potatoes and or chopping parsley for hours. You will also be left alone to finish these monotonous tasks. The cooks will not speak to you and will not show you how to complete your tasks faster.
At one of my apprenticeships sites, I would ask the experienced cooks how long an item would take to cook. I was just looking for an estimated time not an exact moment but I got the same answer all the time:

“WHEN IT’S DONE!”

Endure your hardships silently; they are a right of passage. This applies to cooks whether they are learning in school or on the job. As Sirach says in Chapter Two verse 4 – 6

“Accept whatever befalls you,
in crushing misfortune be patient:
For in fire gold is tested and worthy men in the crucible of humiliation”





I owe, I owe, its off to work I go.
Into THE CAULDRON!

Is tuisce deoch na sceal